Little Paws Rescue Society!

Alouettel Open House 5

How It Started

Little Paws Rescue Society started approximately fifteen years ago on the mainland. Julia Beaton and Diana Sinfield were busy fostering and find homes for Papillons and soon became involved in the re-homing of other small dogs in need. Things became too busy for the two of them to handle so foster homes were needed. Ideas for fund raising were discussed and implemented and they decided on the name “Little Paws Rescue Society”.

Over the years, Little Paws Rescue Society has gathered a talented and varied network of people; from those that foster and fundraise to those that use their wide range of contacts to keep everyone informed of any dog related situations. Little Paws Rescue Society works in cooperation with the S.P.C.A, animal shelters, veterinarians and other rescue groups.Little Paws photo

As the key players in Little Paws Rescue Society; Julia and Diana take seriously their responsibilities concerning this organization. At any given time you will find one or more dogs being fostered in their homes. As volunteers themselves, they work hard to understand and encourage the people volunteering with them. All monetary matters are handled by them. They take the lead and are directly involved in all decisions made in regards to the dogs coming into rescue, the dogs care, home checks and placements.

Public Awareness

Little Paws Rescue Society takes every opportunity to help people understand their responsibilities as dog owners.

We often take dogs to visit Senior Centers where we do demo agility and have people interact with the dogs if they so choose. You will find us participating in Pet Fairs and many other community events.

Please check out our Facebook page for the latest updates:

Dogs In Our Care

We observe the dog with behavior and health issues in mind. we then place the dog into he fostered situation we feel most suitable.
We provide for all veterinarian care required.
This can include but is not limited to:
a spay/neuter
dental work
Occasionally a dog will need very expensive care, an example being knee surgery
We microchip the dog for long term ID
Our concern is that the dog should not be passed to another person without our approval.
When necessary, we have the dogs groomed.
We are fortunate to have someone who donates her time and skill.

We begin the search for a home by posting a picture and profile on our website.
We consider requests and applications.
Our goal is to match a dog to the most suitable applicant.
We do home checks and have prospective person meet the dog.
We place the dog in his/her permanent home.

We follow up to see all is going well!

Little Paws Rescue Society welcomes and appreciates any donations to help with medical expenses.

Please contact Julia:

Visit them at:

7 Ways to Lose Your Dog

By Lisa Kerley, BSc, KPA-CTP Dog Days Daycare

This lady's busy texting.  Would you pay attention to her?

This lady’s busy texting. Would you pay attention to her?

Clients often comment when they watch me with their dog, “How come he pays so much attention to YOU? Perhaps because working with dogs is what I do, I probably have some insider’s secret. After 16 years of being with, handling and training dozens of dogs every day, I hope that I have developed some level of understanding and proficiency. I believe however, that something else is going on.

Some dogs come hard-wired to pay attention to their handlers. They have been ‘designed’ to work alongside people. Others are just inclined to be that way because of their personality. Any dog can quickly learn to tune us out however, because of the way we ARE with them. How we communicate with our dogs and how we interact with them both have a profound effect on whether they choose to stay with us mentally or choose to tune out. Without realizing it, many people are actually teaching their dogs to ignore them.

1. Tune in to Your Dog

From the very first moments I am with any dog, I make our interaction meaningful. I pay attention. I listen. I watch. I reward any attention on their part by giving my attention to them. I notice when they make a good choice or even just try to. I recognize when they are confused or something is worrying them and support them or adjust something to make them more comfortable. Realizing someone is actually paying attention to them changes everything for the dog. It gives them a reason to tune in. Why should they bother to pay attention if no one is doing the same for them?

2. You get what your pay for

We all want our dogs to be well-behaved. When our dogs ARE being good, we often don’t acknowledge that. Perhaps it’s because we just expect them to be that way. Perhaps we are glad for a break from the misbehavior. Whatever the reason, ignoring the good stuff is the fastest way to make it happen less. Behavior that is reinforced, will happen more. That’s just the way it works. So when your dog checks in with you, reciprocate the gesture. Praise him, acknowledge him, give him something he enjoys. Let him know you appreciate it!

3. What are you saying?

Do you whisper sweet nothings into your four-legged friend’s ear? Are wonderful long-winded monologues part of your daily routine together? Even though English isn’t our dogs’ native language, we spend a lot of time talking to them. And there’s nothing wrong with that. It helps develop and strengthen our bond. And darn it, it just feels good. On the other hand, when we are trying to relay information to get our dogs to do something or give instructions, our tendency to blabber makes it harder for the dog to pick out the important parts. In those instances we tend to say a lot, when a little would be more valuable.
Words that should have meaning to the dog lose it because of how we use them.
Does this sound familiar? “Sit. No! Down. Off. I said off! Stop That!” Using a plethora of words when you’re trying to get your dog to just do one thing, is not only ineffective, it’s frustrating to the dog.
Do you repeat yourself? Nagging makes others want to tune out, our dogs included!
And how about your dog’s name? Do you call them and then not let them know why you called? Using their name and then leaving them hanging is a fast way to turn this attention getter into an attention buster.

4. What is it this time?

Boundaries, rules and consequences need to be consistent. Changing them as the mood suits us is not fair. “Sticking to the rules” isn’t tough love. Changing the rules creates confusion and this can lead to stress and frustration.
Getting upset and shoving your dog off when they jump on you when you’re heading off to work and in dress clothes, but petting them when you’re not, is unreasonable.
Also, words in your dog’s vocabulary or cues, should each have their own meaning. You can confuse or frustrate your dog if you use them inconsistently. If you ask your dog to do something, it should mean the same thing every time. If your dog jumps on you and you tell them “Down!”, do you actually mean for them to lay on the ground?
Do you sometimes ask your dog to “Sit” and then not bother following through if they don’t right away? Or how about telling them to do something when you haven’t even taught them that yet? All of these situations could make your dog want to tune you out, rather than try to figure you out!

5. Too Much of a good thing

Every living being needs some degree of freedom for their sense of well-being. Who doesn’t want to give their dogs some freedom to enjoy the pleasure that comes with running free and exploring open spaces? If you have been responsible and taken the time to teach and practice the skills your dog needs to stay safe and be appropriate before providing some freedom, good for you! We need more like you. Offering freedom still requires some care and thought, however.

For a dog that routinely gets things on their own, there isn’t much need to pay attention to their people. They can accomplish things and acquire things independently. No need to check in, ask permission or show a little patience.
Let’s take my daycare as an example. We often hear from people visiting or beginning at our daycare, how quiet and calm the dogs are. So what’s our ‘trade secret’? It’s quite simple.
When some of our dogs get dropped off, they are literally bouncing on all fours. It would be easy to just let them right in and start the fun. While at the facility, we want them to believe everything wonderful comes from the people around them.
From the first moment and throughout their visits, things the dogs want – whether that is going through a doorway to get outside or to a playmate, coming out of a resting area, or getting a chew or a snack – are provided in a way that rewards them for attention. Be calm a moment, check in and Voila!, the poochs get what they want. It’s so simple and yet very powerful. We are aware of what our dogs want in the moment and use those things as Real Life Rewards. We reinforce attention in a way that is REALLY meaningful to the dogs. We make checking in have true value to the dog.

6. Are you Flexi-ble?

Extendable leashes are a popular choice for many people. They are an easy way to provide extra romping room without the risk of being off leash. They are also a super fast way to teach your dog to pay attention to everything around them EXCEPT you. By allowing your dog to continually be at a distance from you, they can gain easy access to stuff without paying an iota of attention to you. They are also great for teaching your dog to pull, rush up to people and other dogs. Along with the potential dangers while using them, they really are not the best choice if you are interested in teaching your dog anything useful.

7. A little effort goes a long way

Micro-managing your dog may seem like the exact opposite of too much freedom. How could they both contribute to the same thing? Let’s consider the example from the daycare. When a dog arrives, we expect them to sit and check in before we open the gate and let the fun begin. Some parents think the rule is “My dog’s butt must be on the ground”. So, some people ask their dog to sit; some push their dog into a sit. On the surface it looks the same, but what we want is actually completely different. When you micro-manage, you’re the one making all the effort. The dog doesn’t need to think about what’s happening or what he’s doing; he doesn’t need to make choices and he doesn’t need to pay attention. Instead we wait for the dog to choose to sit – all by themself. By offering the behaviour without being prompted or being made to do it, we know the dog is tuned in.

You don’t need to be a professional to have a dog that wants to be tuned in to you. Creating that dog does takes commitment, however. With a little consistency, clarity and involvement you’ll be irresistible!

For more information on building great relationships and training tips, please visit

7 Deadly Sins! By Valerie Barry, KPA-CTP


While the title may seem a bit dramatic, I definitely consider it a Sin to get a dog and then spend no amount of time, money or energy helping prepare him to live in our human world. We humans have high expectations and it’s not fair to expect our dogs to blend in seamlessly with little or no preparation.

I’m currently experiencing the joys of adolescence with my recently adopted puppy, Quincy. I haven’t raised an adolescent dog in about 10 years, so it’s a challenge – it can be exasperating and frustrating but overall it’s a lot of fun! Coincidentally, I’m also working with quite a few clients who have adolescent dogs – so it’s a topic very much on my mind.

Once puppyhood is over, adolescence is the next critical period of maturity. It is during this time that important lessons are finalized and opinions about people, dogs, places and things become fixed in their brains. Resolving problems after your dog has reached maturity is not nearly as easy as preventing them.

An adolescent is a dog who is still maturing mentally and emotionally and, to some extent, still physically changing. I consider adolescence to be from about 6 months to 3 or even 5 years of age for the bigger breeds. What this means, behaviourally, is that they are still subject to events or circumstances that may effect their long term behaviour. A large percentage of dogs in shelters are adolescents and many of them have mild or not so mild behaviour issues resulting from a lack of training. They’re out of control and hard to handle. The reality is that many of these dogs end up dead.

Below are 7 key areas that dog owners need to concentrate on during the adolescent stage. Ignoring these areas (or getting poor advice) can result in some serious behavioural issues. Worse yet, you may not see any behavioural “fallout” until your dog is well into their adult years. For example, you may not notice the very subtle signs of resource guarding in your young dog. However, it’s not uncommon for a dog to one day discover something so wonderful that it’s worth hanging on to and then resource guarding behaviours suddenly surface. You know those news reports where the dog “the bite came out of nowhere”?!

I’m not suggesting that every dog will develop problem behaviours, but why take that chance? Besides – it’s FUN to work with your dog and FUN to help them learn things – that’s why you got a dog in the first place, right?!

If you focus your training efforts on each of the areas listed below, you can prevent behavioural issues from creeping up. Even if you have adopted an adult dog, it is well worth your time to spend time working on these things, too. It’s never too late to help your dog live a better life with you.

1st Deadly Sin: Having a dog who jumps up on people or other dogs.

“It’s okay, he’s friendly!” is a phrase I hear far too often and it always makes me cringe as I brace myself and my dog for a rude onslaught. Why people think that their dog jumping on me or slamming into my dog is “friendly” completely baffles me. It’s rude and it’s dangerous. And dogs don’t like being body-slammed any more than humans do. This behaviour can easily result in a fight erupting as the hapless dog victim tries to defend his personal space and impose some manners on the perpetrator. Dogs need to learn to respect the personal space of humans and other dogs. They aren’t born knowing this, they need training – and “No!” or “Off!” is not training.

2nd Deadly Sin: Having a dog who can’t be easily handled.

These are the dogs that require a muzzle and restraint to have their nails clipped, the dogs who can’t be disturbed when they’re sleeping, need to be chased to get their collars or leashes on, hate their harnesses, and are a struggle to bathe. It’s unpleasant and unfair to have a dog completely unprepared for human handling and attention. Very few dogs come out of the womb loving the touch of a human. It’s your job to positively prepare your dog for the things that humans do: hug, kiss, grab, clip nails, clean ears, put on equipment, trip and stumble, go to the vet, use a groomer, etc. Not teaching your dog to happily accept and even enjoy human handling can create a highly stressed and anxious dog who may feel the need to defend himself one day.

3rd Deadly sin: Having a dog who objects to losing his “stuff”.

This is the dog the kids can’t go near when he’s eating, you can’t easily get illegal items away from, or growls and barks (“protects you”) when another dog comes close to you. Resource guarding is very common in dogs because it’s a natural behaviour for them – “when I have it, it’s mine”. They understand it that way and it’s our job to teach what humans expect: “actually everything is mine and I will lend it to you, but I may need it back at some point”. Dogs can resource guard people, places and things. Resource guarding often goes unnoticed because dog owners don’t pick up on the early, subtle signs that your dog may display: speeds up eating when you approach, freezes slightly when you reach for a toy, looks cute with ears back and wiggling but dances just out of teach when you try and grab a stolen item, etc.

A piece of advice – make everything a Trade, never a Take. Anything you need to get from your dog should always be traded for with something of equal or greater value. If possible, give them back the original item you took, too. I do this with my dogs as much as I can throughout their life – not just during adolescence. If you set this practice in place, your dog has no need to guard any resource he feels is important to him and you won’t be a position of having to risk life and limb to get something away from your dog. Your dog will learn to good-naturedly give up valued items because generally they always get them back or something just as good so there’s no reason to object.

4th Deadly Sin: Having a dog who pulls on leash.

Everybody has seen this dog – the one hauling his owner behind him down the street – choking, leash tight, bouncing all over the place. Or you’ve passed the dog who is barking, growling and lunging hysterically at every dog, skateboarder, cyclist and jogger they pass. Polite leash walking is a critical skill for dogs to learn. A pulling dog can very easily turn into a leash reactive dog who barks and lunges at everything. Who wants a dog that only the strongest person in the family can hang on to? Good training teaches your dog that walking politely on leash is his job. We need to keep him thinking and working with us so that reacting and pulling doesn’t even enter his head.

5th Deadly Sin: Having a dog who nips or bites when he’s startled or frightened.

This is the dog who will whip around and nip you if you grab him when he’s busy barking hysterically at something. It can also be the dog who gets so excited during play that he will nip you, grab your clothing or grab at treats or toys hard enough to leave marks. Dogs need to learn how to use their mouths appropriately and that training MUST be done positively and thoughtfully. We want dogs to think that humans are so ridiculously fragile, that they must be very careful to never use their mouths. Any use of punishment for growling or biting – no matter how benign it seems – can really backfire and cause serious problems.

6th Deadly Sin: Having a dog who is destructive or barks all day when he’s alone.

If you have a dog who can’t safely be left alone at all, you may be dealing with Separation Anxiety and you should contact a trained professional who is experienced in force-free training AND has experience with Separation Anxiety. This is a serious behaviour problem and is not easy to fix once it develops. It’s usually preventable if you get the right advice early in puppyhood.

There are, many dogs who may not have Separation Anxiety but are destructive or noisy out of boredom when they’re home alone. Aside from physically satisfying our dog’s needs we also need to mentally satisfying our dog’s needs. Keeping your dog mentally content and exercised can be as simple as feeding him his meals out of treat dispensing toys and/or using these toys as entertainment when you’re not home. There is a fast-rising market of treat dispensing toys and puzzles available at any pet store. Giving your dog puzzles to solve using his meals is mentally stimulating, confidence building and pleasantly tiring. Dogs who spend hours getting their food out of puzzles and toys are generally better behaved, calmer and a treat to come home to at the end of the day.

7th Deadly Sin: Dogs who don’t get along with other dogs.

If I had a dollar for every time I heard some helpful individual say, “it’s okay, the dogs will sort it out themselves”, I would be a wealthy person. No – they can’t always sort it out themselves nor should they be left to do so. Dogs need to learn and develop social skills in order to be able to communicate with each other. Our modern dogs live a fairly solitary existence compared to many generations ago. It’s up to us to provide appropriate opportunities and good direction to teach our dogs how to safely interact with other members of their species. This requires short, well-monitored interactions from puppyhood through adolescence. It definitely does NOT mean long hours in the dog park where they can learn to be bullies or afraid of all but the softest dogs. This requires thoughtful and careful exposure to many dogs.

There is nothing nicer than having a dog who is relaxed around virtually any dog and can safely interact with a dog who may be more or less socially skilled than they are. There’s nothing worse than having a dog that blows up at the sight or sound of another dog and can’t even enjoy play with his own kind – how sad for them.

So maybe all these “Sins” aren’t always “Deadly” – but they certainly CAN be for the dog. Some dogs do manage to be okay without much training but life could be that much better for them if they had it. Most dogs, however, desperately NEED direction, support and appropriate preparation in order to live up to our high expectations.

Adolescence is an important growth stage in the life of your dog – don’t waste the opportunity it presents. Get some good advice and some good, positive and force-free training when your dog is young and carry on with that same training until your dog is a mature adult. It’s should be fun and it gives you both a better quality of life together.

In Partnership With Dogs holds classes specifically designed to teach dog owners how to navigate adolescence and help with the key areas listed above. If you aren’t in our area, find a good, positive trainer near you and see if they would consider setting up classes for adolescent dogs.

Remember to keep it positive and force-free!


Liver Photo...canstockphoto5331092Without a doubt liver is nature’s perfect super-food and an essential part of a healthy raw diet for cats and dogs. You might think about adding into your own diet too. Native American’s recognized the nutritional value of liver. In times of abundance muscle meat that today is highly sought after, would be discarded for scavengers (including dogs ironically), while the organ meats were always consumed by the people.

Liver is nutrient dense, containing between 10 and 100 times higher nutrients than muscle meats and higher levels of micro-nutrients than what is found in many fruits and vegetables.

• An excellent source of high quality protein

• Contains all the essential amino acids

• A great source of fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E & K

• Has all the B Vitamins in abundance, especially B12

• One of the best sources of folic acid

• Contains CoQ10, a nutrient that is crucial for energy production and heart function

• A highly usable source of iron

• Contains trace elements, such as copper, zinc & selenium

If we consider that the liver would comprise about 5% of the total consumable parts on average in most prey species, feeding liver as 5% of the total diet is recommended. For example, if a 50 lb dog is eating around 10 lbs of raw meat and bones per week, half a pound of his weekly intake should come from liver. Spread this portion out over a few days however, as feeding it in larger portions can cause diarrhea.

There is the mistaken belief that the liver stores toxins, and feeding it to your pet would be harmful. This is incorrect. The liver does not store toxins, it neutralizes them. In fact, the liver stores many valuable nutrients.

Primary liver functions:

• Metabolizing fats, proteins, and carbohydrates

• Purifying and clearing waste products, toxins, and drugs

• Storing important nutrients (such as glycogen glucose, vitamins, and minerals)

• Metabolizing hormones, internally produced wastes, and foreign chemicals

According to a paper published by Dr. Ershoff “eating whole liver has been shown to counteract the damaging effects of massive doses of a long list of toxic chemicals including rat poison and other known mutagens”. This is not surprising, knowing that the liver is responsible for removing toxic substances from the blood. Is there any better way to enhance your pet’s detox ability than to consume raw liver? Probably not!

Select sources of liver than come from pasture raised animals as they will contain the highest levels of nutrients. The liver from Cows and other large ungulates such as Elk, Bison and Deer have more nutrients per pound than from poultry sources. A liver from a healthy animal should feel firm, not mushy.

While many cats and dogs really like liver, I also know that many will turn their nose up to it. So what can you do if your pet doesn’t like liver?

You can cut the liver into small pieces or puree and mix in with a favorite food. Lightly searing the outside can change the texture and smell which could be more appealing to your pet. If neither of these tactics works, you can also try feeding it frozen. Lastly you can dehydrate it and make liver treats. Also consider that the older the animal was that the liver came from, the stronger the flavor will be.

Include wholesome raw liver in your pet’s diet and improve the function of their liver

• The correction of hormonal imbalances

• Increased energy

• Improved immune function

• Better ability to detox chemicals, wastes, toxins and drugs

• Increased ability to metabolize food.